Author: Sophie Piearcey

From mountain to massage – Après Ski package at Nugget Point Spa, Queenstown

Think Bella Italia, beautiful décor and a spa package that quiet literally will send you into another realm of relaxation. We are hanging on to the end of Winter here in Queenstown, snow is sporadic, days are still chilly, and the air is crisp. Total spring vibes going on down in the South.

We spent our weekend up on The Remarkables, making the most of that spring slushy goodness and limited lift queues. We lost count of the runs we had completed and only stopped when our legs started to get sore, a sure-fire sign that it’s time to call it a day.

Calling it a day on the hill meant we could get ready and head to our next destination. Nugget Point Spa in Arthurs Point, Queenstown. The Spa is a 7-minute drive from town, nestled in the hills and surrounded by the most epic mountains. I was in my element before we had even stepped through the door. We were here for a relaxation outdoor tub and Après Ski massage, which with our snowboarded’ out bodies were very warmly received.

Entering the spa area, we were greeted with a large pool, sauna and steam room. Beautiful marble floors and Italian style décor adorn the walls, bliss. We quickly got changed, chucked on the robes and headed out to the tubs. Three brand new custom-built outdoor tubs with views of the mountains, surrounded by beautiful pine trees and a massive spoonful of serenity just to top it off. We were in heaven, soaking in a tub, looking at the view and reflecting on the best day of the season so far!

The hour slipped away from us and we had to depart our little bubble of peace however, next up was the massage room. We both opted for a medium to hard massage, neck, back, and shoulders, you know to get those snowboard niggles out. I can hands down say this is the best massage I have ever had. Ever. I mean it, it was the most perfect massage in the most beautiful setting.

I didn’t want to leave but the beautiful ladies had made us a pot of peppermint tea to enjoy while watching the sunset over the mountains, honestly, could it be more perfect?

After melting into relaxation abyss, we spent some time in the spa. The pool, sauna and steam room were the perfect place to end what happened to be the most perfect day in Queenstown.

Seriously this place is divine, so close to Queenstown and the best way to spend an afternoon with your love, or alone.

Thank you, Nugget Point Spa, for this evening treat. We can’t wait to experience it again.

Check out their website here

Every time I get in the car and drive South, I have to pinch myself. I am lucky enough to spend a sweet amount time down in Fiordland National Park with work and every single visit leaves me speechless. For those of you who have never been, Fiordland is in the South of New Zealand and home to ridiculously beautiful mountains, fiords, glaciers, and walking tracks, enough to keep you busy for weeks.

Milford was founded over 1000 years ago by Maori people, they would hunt, fish and collect Pounamu around the fiord. As there was no access to Milford via road they would walk from afar. The treks from the east used traditional pathways across passes that are now famously known as the MacKinnon Pass on the Milford Track. The early Maori settlers named the area, Piopiotahi, legend has it a hero Maui died trying to win immortality for his beloved people, a Piopio (a long-extinct native bird) was said to have flown here in mourning.

I don’t know if it’s the rich history or the dramatic landscape that makes this region so magical, but it is, and I can’t quite explain why. Maybe it is the feeling of being cut off, maybe it’s the towering peaks, the unpredictability of the weather or the silence. Whatever it is, it’s captivating.

 

I recently jumped in the car and went exploring deep into Fiordland with my beautiful friend Thuc. We set off on a frosty morning in Queenstown before the sun appeared. Driving from Queenstown to Te Anau is a journey in itself, obligatory coffee stops, and snack breaks were had before switching off for the day and heading into the national park. I tell you the perks of being on the road early mean no traffic, no people and candy floss sunrises all to ourselves. We slowed the pace when driving through the park and soaked in all that mountain goodness, stopping for all the photo ops and Kea Bird appreciation.

Upon reaching Milford, even with our old lady like driving still left us time to explore the surrounds. We parked up and headed on a little mission to the foreshore. The short jaunt through the native bush along the wooden walkway only takes around ten minutes and brings you right in front of Mitre Peak itself. You can watch the boats moving in and out of the terminal and search for that famous swing, hidden in the trees.

We cruised, we ate, we soaked in all the mountains for two whole hours. Milford from the water is captivating and we were blessed with epic conditions. The drive home was a flurry of creativity and inspiration.

A beautiful day spent with a beautiful friend in New Zealand’s most beautiful setting.

Thanks to Trespass for keeping me warm and dry #gofurther

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Another day, another thunderstorm. Imagine laying there in bed before the sun had risen, listening to the pounding rain on the roof, slightly being drowned out by the sound of barking dogs down below. This morning felt different though, I just knew that we would get to Lukla today, somehow.

We packed our bags, said goodbye to the luxury hotel room once more and devoured a mountain of toast for breakfast. After food we sat in the lobby, contemplating our fate, dramatic right? Well, it was exactly that. Shankar paced the reception hall on and off his phone, Kashi sat chill as anything with his feet up and boots laced, ready to go. We had to wait here, Shankar didn’t want us waiting again at the airport again so we sat around in the warmth watching the rain and waiting for a call. We jokingly started to make plans, for if we had to spend another day in Kathmandu when Shankar came running over, grab your bags, hurry, hurry we have to go! What, who, where, what… there was a mass scramble. Exclamations, hiking boots, and poles flung everywhere. Every member of our group grabbed everything they could and piled into the minibus. Emotions were high, higher than they had been the whole trip, this was it, we had the all-clear and the airport was in sight.

Knowing the check-in procedure and airport staff now by name we breezed through into the departure lounge. Was this even real? Did I have time to pee, could I squeeze in another tea? I was a wreck, it was hectic. That was until we were told to wait once more, the plane wasn’t quite ready for us. Unfortunately, as we had missed the previous two days we were now at the bottom of the queue, two hours passed and a press-up competition later we finally saw Shankar move like lightning across the departure lounge. We ran to that bus, airline tickets waving around in our hands, this is progress. The whole group now sat on the bus waiting to cross the runway; one step closer to that flight to Lukla. I can’t describe the feeling when the bus moved and the plane, our plane, the plane that was solely for our group was in touching distance.

Again, we waited, even having time to run to the makeshift runway toilets before finally getting the all-clear from the pilot. If you have ever flown to Lukla or even read about it, you may know that the left side of the plane is where it’s at. The left side of the plane only has four seats, we were a group of 13. As much as our bonding session over the past few days had solidified group relationships all niceties went out of the window as we rushed across the tarmac to secure those four precious seats. I got one, and boy was it worth it. I felt sick, the plane took off, we were on the way. After the world’s most pathetic safety briefing by the poor air hostess who couldn’t even stand upright in the plane a basket of treats and cotton wool was passed around.

I couldn’t take my eyes off the view. The Himalayas shining bright under the afternoon sun, mountains as far as the eye could see and the mass of Kathmandu city unfolding below. We felt every single bump, cloud and turn, some more than others and motion sickness was rife in our tiny tin can.

The airport soon came into view, that famous runway perched on the edge of a cliff. I held on to my seat expecting a bumpy landing. Just as the plane started to descend it took a sharp right turn, I assumed for another run-up, after all this is the world’s most dangerous airport, if our pilot needed another go then I am all for it. Less than 30 seconds later the plane erupted with applause, we had landed. I quickly glanced around the plane to see the confused faces of our guides, Kashi mouthed to me, ‘this isn’t it’ over the propellers and then we came to a stop. Yes, we had landed, yes, we were safe but no we hadn’t landed in Lukla, in fact, we were now a four-minute flight away from Lukla, or a two-day walk, we later learned. Apparently, upon descent, the pilot had to make an emergency landing here, a huge gust of wind had forced the three planes on route to Lukla away.

Confusion spread but also laughter, only us, right? So, we set up camp on the runway watching the other failed attempts landing beside us and not knowing how or when we might get there. Two hours passed as we sat in the sunshine at this random airstrip in the hills.

The boys played that old horseshoe game with scrap metal found on-site, Robbie taught them how to juggle and we delved into our snack bags. Dan even had a nap in a wheelbarrow, it was all fun and games being stranded. Our pilot was classic, looking like he stepped right out of movie, leather jacket, aviators, even a dodgy tash to match. I saw it before anyone else. He gave the nod, he had just spoken to air traffic control and after three hours in no man’s land, we had a window. Seat belts buckled quicker than I’ve ever seen in my life and take off before anyone really knew what was happening. Back in the air we all prayed to land and guess what, four minutes later we FINALLY landed in Lukla. Like the good old bunch of Brits (majority speaking) we were the plane erupted with applause and exclamations, we were here! We had made it.

A wave of emotion hit me, just like the heat does when you step off a plane, but we had just entered the mountains, it was already cold. Walking across the tarmac has to be up there with one of the best moments of my life. Lukla airport was built in 1964 with the help of the Edmund Hilary trust fund and has since been coined the world’s most dangerous airport. Why? Because the runway sits on the edge of a cliff, so when you’re flying in all you can see is the cliff edge, the runway is short and at the other end lies the mountains. The pilots have to not only navigate the landing they also have to break in time and move out of the way before another plane comes into land.

We grabbed our bags and started walking through Lukla town surrounded by the most insane views and the sun slowly starting to set. I just wanted to cry, I did of course. We called into our first teahouse for food, we all opted for veggie burgers before filling our water bottles, digging out our head torches and setting off toward the next village, the village where we would be staying for the first night of our trek.

We set off at 6pm, knowing that in a few short hours we would be hiking in the dark, but we didn’t care, there was spring in everyone’s step, we were finally on our way to Everest Base Camp. The walk was fine, and we soaked in all the views we could before the sun finally disappeared behind the mountains.

The scariest part was navigating the bridges in the dark, you know those metal swing bridges with dangerously large drops underneath, but we did it and before we knew it had made it to the village of Phakding.

The lodge owners were very happy to see us, even if it was way past our intended arrival time. Dahl Baht for all was dished up along with hot drinks and refilled water bottles, all ready for our first night’s sleep in the Himalayas. I think we all underestimated how cold it was going to be down here, I mean it was freezing. I slept in so many layers and getting up to use the bathroom in the middle of the night was only a sign of things to come. BUT I am 100% not complaining. I snuggled into my minus 20 sleeping bag and counted all my blessings. Tomorrow would be our first official day on the trek, we would be walking in the day time and my mind couldn’t quite sleep knowing it was going to be blown away tomorrow.

The wakeup call came earlier than my tired eyes could handle but I jumped out of bed and got ready quicker than ever, I had some trekking to do.

One can’t really describe the feeling of waking up at 4am, knowing that in a few short hours you would be boarding a plane and starting the trek of a lifetime. It was happening, the day was finally here, and I ignored the fact I had been awake the majority of the night as I showered for what would be the last time for a few weeks.

The hotel lobby was filled with nervous chatter about the flight and our 10kg weight limit, I knew we would be fine, but I couldn’t help but wonder what would happen to all the extra snacks I shoved in last minute if we were a little over. I wasn’t sure if the airport would have WIFI so I quickly sent those last-minute texts to all our family and friends letting them know the date they could expect us back in Kathmandu as we patiently waited to be summoned by our guides. Another guide had joined us too, Kashi, we would get to know more about him later but for now, we wait.

The G Adventures minibus pulled up outside and we all piled in. I sat silently watching Kathmandu slowly come to life, holding Robbie’s hand and praying that we would be okay on the mountain. This was my first ever high-altitude trek and a lifelong dream so naturally, my emotions were running high.

We pulled into the airport; the carpark alone was hectic. Our guides told us to pick up any bag and follow them into the departure hall. We had no idea what time our flight was or what exactly to expect, so we followed instructions carefully. Once inside all the black trekking bags were weighed together. The whole plane goes on a collective weight – we passed! Next minute they want your 7KG hand luggage. I quickly stripped the water bottles and camera out from the pockets and passed over a considerably lighter backpack. We must have passed this too as everything was handed back along with a ticket.

We were told to wait in the seating area next to the check-in desks before moving through security and into the departure lounge. I nervously asked if I had time to run to the toilet, Shankar told me plenty. I glanced at the board on the way back and Tara Air had planes departing for Lukla at around 9am, it was currently 7.15am, plenty of time to grab a brew and mentally prepare for the flight. Hours passed and we still sat waiting, some of the group napped on the floor and others checked in with their loved ones one last time. We spent a ridiculous amount of money on overpriced biscuits and tea from the café and watched the hours roll on by. Shankar and Kashi, sat just a little away from us on their phones, later telling us they were sat receiving updates. 11am ticked over as did the news that we may not fly today. My stomach and my heart dropped so hard, I was instantly devastated. Apparently, the skies were clear, and the wind was low, but a huge white cloud was covering the runway. Shankar had a friend in Lukla who was sending regular updates down to Kathmandu. We were told if the clouds didn’t clear then we would be taken to a hotel and brought back to the airport tomorrow to try again.

Another hour and a half passed, and groups were slowly starting to leave the airport, we soon joined them, jumped back on the G Adventures coach and headed to the fancy accommodation provided for the night. We were greeted at the door with sashes and cucumber juice drinks, given room keys and told to come down for dinner at 7pm. Here we would find out the plan. Not being ones to sit and mope around, even though that’s all I wanted to do we recruited Siobhan and went on a hunt for Momos. We tried two places and they both were out of the veggie ones… Siobhan googled a place and we walked to what felt like the outskirts of Kathmandu, up a back alley and some stairs to a pretty local looking place. They were as shocked as we were to be ordering but we did and damnnnn were they delicious. After stuffing our faces with food, we made the 15km walk back to the hotel, a few wrong turns later and I was again showering for what I thought would be the last time.

We had a very somber meeting with our guides and group. Basically, explaining that if we couldn’t fly tomorrow, we would need to think of other options, Annapurna being one of them. I pinned all my hopes on flying to Lukla Tuesday morning as I settled into the King Size bed for the night.

I woke at 4am, not through excitement, but because the sound of thunder and lightning crashed around what felt like my headboard. I cried, I honestly thought our Everest dreams were over, this time. Robbie had already contrived a little plan if we couldn’t fly but I didn’t want to think of second options, I so desperately wanted to be there. We arrived for breakfast, ate up and jumped in the van to the airport, despite the rain. Shankar said the weather might clear and Lukla could be okay. We followed the airport procedure and waited in departures. All I could see were red canceled signs flashing on the screens. Four hours passed and all flights had been grounded. The whole team felt deflated; we left the airport on the minibus on route to the hotel.

Over the sound of silence, Shankar announced we should go to the temple to walk around, we all agreed as it was better than sitting in the hotel all day watching the rain. The temple we visited is called Pashupatinath.

Pashupatinath Temple is Nepal’s most sacred Hindu temple. Located on the outskirts of Kathmandu, near the airport. You will need to jump in a taxi to get here and pay the entry fee to walk around. The temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Nepal and people travel from afar to worship here, it also attracts elderly followers of Hinduism who come here to die & be cremated.

The temple is an open-air crematorium, the podiums are prepared for the dead and families can hold a ceremony for their loved ones, their ashes are then pushed into the river. This river meets up with the Ganges in India, and ultimately paradise. When we arrived, we walked around, distracted by the monkeys and cows wandering through the grounds.

We also spoke to the beautifully decorated men who happily posed for portraits. While we were in the temple, we witnessed the beginnings of a ceremony, we watched the family cover the deceased in flowers and transport them to a podium, we left shortly after out of respect. It was a beautifully, humbling experience to see how other cultures celebrate life and death.

Back at the hotel, we were welcomed with cucumber mushy drinks, we could see the sympathetic faces of the hotel staff, knowing that once again our Lukla efforts had failed. But we got to shower again and sleep in a bed fit for a king, we lapped up the luxury while we could.

Another somber dinner with the team, some members choosing to retire to bed early and see what tomorrow brings. I was one of those people. I sat in bed and planned out Plan B because if we didn’t fly Wednesday morning then our Everest dreams may come to an end and I was determined to not let that happen.

I fell asleep to the sound of rain hitting the roof, dogs barking below and the occasional crash of thunder. I squeezed Robbie’s hand hard and prayed for a clear day in the mountains tomorrow, we just had to get to Lukla.

TBC…

 

Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal, a frantically busy yet beautiful part of the world. It now happens to be my favourite Asian city out of all that I have visited. I fell in love with the culture, the smells & the hustle and bustle. The people we met were friendly and welcoming, practicing their English and befriending us as we walked through the maze of Thamel. At night Thamel came to life with colour, lights, and offerings jumping out at us, it’s a good job we had a baggage weight limit otherwise I would have stuffed rugs, decorative cushions and most possibly a Yak or a couple of stray Dogs in my case.

We were lucky enough to have a few days pre and post our Everest Base Camp Trek to explore Kathmandu and although we didn’t plan a hectic itinerary, we managed to fit in everything we wanted. You could spend weeks here and just scratch the surface but with limited time and a whole lot of relaxing to do – here are the places I suggest you visit if you have three days in Kathmandu.

Day 1

Welcome to Kathmandu, good luck with the airport, it’s a wild one. If you’re staying in Thamel – the main tourist area of the city you will need to get a taxi. This should cost around $10 USD; you can pay the driver in Rupees or USD. There are plenty of places to stay around Thamel for every budget, we stayed at the Fuji Hotel – this is the G Adventures hotel where most treks start and finish, we decided to tap extra days on to make it easier.

There is so much to explore in Kathmandu and it’s best to start right on your hotel doorstep. Thamel is a maze of trekking gear lined streets, rickshaws and beeping taxis. It’s easy to get lost around here, but who doesn’t love getting lost and having a tea break to help find your way again. Thamel is the perfect place to stock up on handicrafts, local souvenirs or last-minute gear. Take in the culture, drink plenty of chai tea and people watch to your heart’s content.

Thamel is also full to the brim of amazing eateries, sometimes difficult to spot from the road as the bottom layer of shops is reserved for the goods. Google will be your best friend, I regularly searched, ‘best vegetarian food in Thamel’ ‘Best Momo’s in Thamel’ & ‘Rooftop bar in Thamel’ you will be inundated with options and maps, good luck navigating the streets for the momos. Speaking of food, OR2K is hands down the best place to eat in the area. Middle Eastern style cuisine, huge cushioned seating areas and platters big enough to feed the hungriest of trekkers. I highly recommend this place for dinner – I’m still dreaming about the sharing bread and dip plate. We also ate an abundance of momos all over the city. Mitho café & restaurant is also a great place to fuel up. They have amazing buddha bowls, salads and of course veggie momos. We went here a few times as it was just a little out of the main hustle. On our final night we ate at a restaurant called Places restaurant and bar – these guys have an amazing vegetarian menu, can 100% recommend.

After walking around all day checking out the shops and the area you will be ready to hit the hay ready for a full day of exploring tomorrow.

Day 2

I am always an early riser when on holiday, I love getting up and out before the world has properly woken up. In March the temperatures in Kathmandu were manageable, not to hot so walking around at midday was fine. We spent one whole day exploring the temples around Kathmandu and it was magical. The country is so rich with culture and history and the people we met along the way made this whole day one to remember.

Durbar Square just on the outskirts of Thamel is the most logical place to start. You can walk here from your accommodation and grab breakfast on the way. The guards arrive at around 9am, when they are stationed you will have to pay $10 USD to enter. There are plenty of locals inside who will want to be paid for their guiding services, we just researched what we wanted to see and happily walked around alone.

One of the main reasons people visit Durbar Square is to catch a glimpse of the Kumari – the living Goddess. She lives in the Kumari Ghar, a palace in the centre of the square. Radical followers of the traditions believe that even a slight glimpse of the goddess will bring good fortune, you will find lines of people milling around in the courtyard below her window.

Kathmandu is relatively easy to navigate, and taxis are everywhere. You can get to all the hotspots by taxi hopping all day, or choose to pay one driver for the day and they will wait outside for you as you have a look around the temples – this is a great way to get local information, plus it helps the drivers practice their English, which they love.

The Buddhist stupa of Boudha Stupa dominates the Kathmandu skyline, it is one of the largest unique structured stupas in the world. Draped in prayer flags and surrounded by cafes you can sit for hours watching the world go by in the little square. If you’re lucky you might see the monks praying outside, stand back and be respectful as they go about their business.

Pashupatinath Temple is Nepal’s most sacred Hindu temple. Located on the outskirts of Kathmandu, near the airport, you will need to jump in a taxi to get here and pay the entry fee to walk around. The temple is the oldest Hindu temple in Nepal and people travel from afar to worship here, it also attracts elderly followers of Hinduism who come here to die & be cremated. The temple is an open-air crematorium, the podiums are prepared for the dead and families can hold a ceremony for their loved ones, their ashes are then pushed into the river. This river meets up with the Ganges in India, and ultimately paradise. When we arrived, we walked around, distracted by the monkeys and cows wandering the grounds. We also spoke to the beautifully decorated men who happily posed for portraits. While we were in the temple, we witnessed the beginnings of a ceremony, we watched the family cover the deceased in flowers and transport them to a podium, we left shortly after out of respect. It was a beautifully, humbling experience to see how other cultures celebrate life and death.

Possibly the most popular temple to visit in Kathmandu is the monkey temple – Swayambhunath. Jump in a taxi to get there, you will need to save your legs for the stone steps at the gate. The Stupa looks over the whole city, providing panoramic views and giving you a real perception of how huge the capital city is. Wander around, light candles for loved ones and watch the monkeys play. There is a small pool at the back, this is a great place to watch the monkeys. If you arrive early morning or late afternoon, then you will see them at their most active. You can opt to walk down into Thamel or save your legs and get dropped at your favourite Momo hut, lemon ginger honey tea goes down a treat before dinner.

Day 3

For your last day in Kathmandu, you will most definitely need to relax a little, soak in that last bit of culture and prepare for your trek or onward journey. There is a heap of cooking classes in Kathmandu, some that don’t have a price, you just pay what you think. If you fell in love with momos as much as I did then learning to make them is the best gift you can give to yourself. ‘Social tours’ are a great company to use, simply email them the day before and meet in the morning. The ladies will show you around the markets, gather ingredients and teach you all the tricks of the trade to make your own delicious treats.

Be sure to wash your hands or take sanitiser when you can – our friend gave herself food poisoning by accident from not washing before she ate.

As you wander around Thamel, full of the homemade goodness you will notice the vast amount of spa and massage parlours. We walked in off the street and spent a few hours getting pampered. I had a full manicure, pedicure, one-hour massage, and green tea for only $45 USD… it was bliss!

To round off your day of relaxation take a short ten-minute walk away from the busy streets of Thamel toward the garden of dreams. A respite from the crazy traffic and people in the city. The Garden of Dreams is a beautifully designed and maintained space that is well worth a visit. Take your book or just sit and enjoy a coffee listening to the fountains and peace around you.

Kathmandu is an incredible city to explore, filled with the most wonderful sights, smells, sounds and people who will blow you away with their kind nature. We thoroughly enjoyed our time here. Go with the flow and embrace the beautiful chaos of the city, I for one can’t wait to return.

 

 

 

 

 

The day had finally arrived. I checked my list, unpacked and repacked my bag multiple times and panicked repeatedly about the number of socks in my suitcase as it rolled out of sight on the airport conveyor belt, bound for Kathmandu. I calmed my nerves with chai from the overpriced airport café and waited for the boarding call. We were officially on route to Everest! Well, Nepal but in three days’ time, we would board another tiny plane heading toward the world’s most dangerous runway.

Flying with China Southern Air was great and for the first time in my whole life, I ate the plane food, to its entirety. This may be because I clicked the Vegan option but my normal habits of buying an airport sandwich and sniffing the box until the food has been cleared were put to the side on this flight. Robbie had been to Kathmandu before in 2015 where he completed Annapurna Base Camp, so he knew what to expect, however, this was my first time and I was beyond excited. Three films deep, including the crimes of Grindelwald (fave!) I decided to get some rest, we were due to arrive at 10 pm and I knew I would feel crap the next day if I didn’t sleep at least a tiny bit.

When we landed in Kathmandu my adrenaline hit the roof, one step closer to the trip and also extreme excitement to be exploring a new city. My excitement was soon wiped when we entered the arrivals hall and the ridiculous methods to obtain a 30-day visa presented themselves
Side note, if you have the chance to get this in your country beforehand, I advise you do.

We started to queue; it wasn’t all bad we heard some people spent hours here. First, you fill out a paper form, then upload that onto a screen that was installed sometime in the ’80s to receive a small ticket, you then move to a payment desk and pay the $40 for a 30-day visa, you then move to the immigration agent and show him all of the above. After a very awkward silence and what seemed like forever, he stamped our passports and then the real carnage followed. The baggage claim area was madness, with multiple flights arriving at once the place was chockablock. We proceeded to belt 2 and waited for our bags to arrive, I loosely overheard a crackly tannoy announcement that our bags would be moved over to belt 3. We pushed through the crowd and waited patiently for them to arrive, it was getting on, we were now watching one lone silver suitcase make the rounds… no backpacks in sight.

Oh lord. I panicked, all my gear was in my bag, my boots and all… I was devastated. I honestly thought my bags were still in New Zealand. Not one to hide my emotions very well I drew the attention of an airport worker who so very casually pointed to a pile of lonely luggage… and there she was, my suitcase and Robbie’s backpack waiting for us. We headed out to grab a cab into the city. Due to it being late we just jumped in the first one, it only cost $8USD to Thamel which is the main tourist area of Kathmandu.

It’s always weird when you arrive at accommodation late and this was no exception. I pulled my case over the building site rubble and entered what looked like an apartment block, dodging the hanging washing we took the stairs to the first communal area we found. Someone was sleeping on the couch, we had to wake him up to check in, his first question… Do you need a mountain guide, my friend will take you to Base Camp. As we had already booked with G Adventures we politely declined and chose a room on the top floor. 17 hours later I made it to the top, dragging my case full of hiking gear behind me.

This hotel was to be a base for the next two days as we explore Thamel. I woke up crazy early to a beautiful sunrise over Kathmandu and waited for Robbie to rise. We wanted to spend the day just wandering around and eating good food & that’s exactly what we did. First on the agenda was second breakfast for Robbie. We then walked through the back streets and down to Durbar Square. We arrive before the guards, therefore, skipped paying, we did return after our trek and paid to enter, it’s only $10 per person.

We didn’t really know what we were looking at, so I researched it over lunch for the next visit. Food was the next mission of the day. We had walked past a real urban looking café near our accommodation, so we headed back there and man, I’m glad we did! It was unbelievably tasty and cheap. We had budda bowls, momo’s, spicy potatoes and heaps of lemon & turmeric drinks. We people watched from the balcony before retreating for an afternoon chill.

The days before we started the trek went a little like the above. We had massages, strolled slowly around Thamel and topped up our supplies. The only thing I needed to purchase was a pair of waterproof pants and gloves, and we needed to rent our sleeping bags. We found a shop, ‘The up to date trekking shop’ & met the sweetest guy inside. He assured us our bags had been professionally dry cleaned and that the -20 fill would keep us warm high on the mountain.

All this shopping called for more food and beverages. Most restaurants in Kathmandu had awesome vegetarian options however it was hard to find the good ones right off the street. The lower level of shops are filled with goods to purchase and most eateries are located upstairs, entrances sometimes not visible to the eye. We googled some of the hotspots and drowned in veggie momos.

As we booked the trek with G Adventures, we had a hotel for the night before departure, we met the crew and our guide Shankar. What a guy, he was the most chill person ever and ever so casually told us of the risks involved in our upcoming adventure. This is when you run through the itinerary and big Shanks made sure everyone had everything they need for the trek. We politely opted out of a group dinner, only because some of the group had just arrived in Kathmandu and had last minute bits to collect, unfortunately Chase’s suitcase didn’t make it all the way from the USA so he had a mad dash round Thamel to sort himself out before the 5 am wake up call.

Our last night in Kathmandu was one full of nerves and anticipation. I emptied my suitcase multiple times to repack into the supplied trekking bag, this can only weigh 10KG so packing only the essentials is imperative. Once packed, locked and secured at the other side of the room to stop me digging in there I had what I thought would be my last shower for 12 days. We went for one last stroll and cheeky beer before retiring to bed at a ludicrous hour of 9 pm.

I wish I could say I got a good nights sleep, but one slept for a grand total of 40 minutes. My alarm went off and I was already lying there awake. You know that Christmas day sicky feeling you used to get as a child, well that’s what was going on inside me. I had another shower and put on my trekking clothes, sent messages to our loved ones and waited in reception for the rest of our group.

This was it, we were ready to go… or so we thought.

Here it is, 10 things nobody told me about trekking to Everest Base Camp. You can read all you want online, you can stare at Instagram feeds and research images all you like, for hours in fact like I did, however, nothing will quite prepare you for The Himalayas like actually being there. So, without further ado, numero uno awaits.

Maybe I kind of already knew this one BUT I didn’t know how actually mind-blowingly, breathtakingly beautiful the whole experience would be. I found myself in moments of awe at the mountains, the insane views around every corner, the people, the food and most importantly at how amazing the whole experience was. I am still struggling to put it into words how awesome it really was, one day I will return and pick up the pieces of my heart that I left there.

It is uphill both ways. Can you believe it? I was fully under the impression that we would be steadily climbing for seven days, but no. Some days you can walk up, down and all around. One particular day we walked down into the valley for a good few hours before ascending at the end of the day, pair that with a bit of Nepali flat and your body will be on the workout of its life.

You will eat more than normal. Especially near the top where food is so important to fuel your body. Some days I was ordering two full meals to myself and not having an issue polishing it off – carb heavy at that. This is not a holiday to be body conscious, in fact, screw being body conscious at all, you need the carbs/fuel for your body. Our guide would advise if we weren’t eating enough food and to order some extra potatoes if needed. Top tip for you, eat all the Garlic Soup you can and drink Lemon, Ginger honey drinks, they both help with the altitude and don’t taste all too bad. You will stop for snacks along the way at various tea houses or just at water breaks. If you have your own snacks, great but if not don’t be a tight ass, buy stuff from the tea houses and the locals. You will stop worrying about the cost when you see how it is carried up there.

You will be totally at one with nature. Of course, being surrounded by Mother Nature and her greatest creation will do wonders for your soul, however, what I mean by this is that when nature calls… make sure you are prepared, carry loo roll in your bag. You may not pass a town for hours and when you do that rock in the field may be more appealing. There are bins everywhere so be sure to dispose of your waste and if there’s not a bin, be prepare to carry it in your pocket until you find one, remember to leave no trace. By the end of the trek, you will be a master in locating great toilet spots for you and your fellow gal pals, it becomes an excellent bonding activity.

You will make friends for life. We were lucky enough to be surrounded by 12 epic humans. Our group dynamic was awesome, banded together when the going got tough and made sure we completed that hike as a team. So many laughs, stories, card games, and friendships were made in such a short amount of time.

Altitude may or may not affect your body. This is the one thing you can’t really train for, that is unless you live at altitude and can hike high in the mountains. Altitude sickness can sneak up on you at any time. For some unbeknown reason, I didn’t get as much as a headache however members of our group got sick, we even had a heli evac. Drink plenty of water, eat garlic soup & other carb-loaded food and walk slow. Don’t fight it, if you feel sick, tell someone.

Everest won’t be the biggest mountain you see. Well technically it is, of course, she’s the mother of all mountains but due to her positioning and the route, you won’t be stood face to face with her. However, every fleeting glimpse of her incredible peak is enough to get your heart racing. To say I got a little emotional at every sighting is an understatement.

P.S I also fell in love with Ama Dablam – can you see why?

You will not shower for the entirety of the trek. In the hotel before we let I was throwing my shampoo and conditioner in my bag and running around Thamel to buy a microfiber towel. Did I use it? No! The thought of getting out of a shower, wet and instantly cold into an icy room to change was the first big no-no. Don’t worry though, you get used to it and baby wipes become your best friend, as will talcum powder and a beanie hat.

You will spend most of your time & use up a considerable amount of camera roll on Yak trains. Part of me was excited at the prospect of seeing the Yaks on the mountain as much as I was to see base camp itself. I had to refrain from patting them individually, but I have millions of photos to keep them close to my heart. I have so much respect for the people and the animals on the mountain, they carry tremendous weight and sometimes I wished not for them. Maybe one day Robbie will let me open a Yak Sanctuary or just have one to call my own.

This trek will change your life.

There it is, I said it and I God damn mean it. This was honestly the best trip and experience of my whole life. I am in constant amazement of what my body can do, how I pushed it to the physical limit and reached a goal. I followed in the footsteps of one of my idols, Sir Edmund Hillary and stood at the base of Mother Natures greatest creation. It was such an incredibly humbling moment, one I will cherish forever.

Here is the exact trip we booked with G Adventures.

Who would have thought, the girl that hates packing more than life itself sat here writing her third blog post about packing, how thrilling! Seriously though, this could be your saving grace, the holy grail, the blog post you have always been waiting for. Okay, I will stop, but seriously I searched high, low and under rocks for some solid base camp advice, the real and raw shit, straight from the horse’s mouth and all that jazz to which no one delivered online so here it is… A detailed list of the items you will 100% need to pack for the trek.

Baby Wipes & Toilet Paper

Ahh, your new best friend, shower buddy and saving grace as you scale the mountains. Use them wisely, pack a couple of packs and make sure you buy them at home or in Kathmandu, they can be pretty pricey on the mountain. Toilet paper also, not many places supply it in the room or shared bathrooms and trust me, using the tissues off the table when you run out is not run. Grab a couple of rolls in Kathmandu and keep one on you at all times, when nature calls, you know?

Hand sanitizer

You will need this, all day err day. There is no running water at the top, it’s minus temps and you certainly won’t want to put cold water on your precious digits. Plus, if you are out in the wilderness you will need to sanitise to reduce the risk of getting ill.

First Aid Kit

I can’t stress how important this is. You never know what or when you might need this. Here is the link to everything in our kit. Blister plasters, ibuprofen & rehydration/gastro packets will be your friend.

Sleeping bag

We rented ours from a shop in Thamel. It was a minus 20 bag and damn did we need it. It was so warm and cosy, exactly the right size and temp to keep us warm, especially on those minus seventeen-degree mornings. It cost us $1.50 USD a day and we returned it the day after we returned to Kathmandu. The guy is a little legend, so if you need to rent go to the up to date trekking shop in Thamel.

If you are bringing your own bag make sure it is low enough in temperature, it’s freezing cold up there and there’s nothing like not being able to sleep because you think your toes are about to drop off.

Thermals

When you get closer to base camp and for at least two or three days you will need thermal top and bottoms day and night. I didn’t take mine off for three days in fear of exposing my skin to the cold. Anything made from Merino wool is 100% the way to go. Merino will keep you cool when you are hot too, so perfect to pack for all weathers.

Socks, gloves, hat, scarf & sunglasses

These are your staple accessories. I took my Mons Royale buff, it was perfect in the wind and keeping my ears warm, as was my Merino Mons beanie. Good sunglasses are important, I am convinced that this is one of the reasons I didn’t get headaches. I went for glacial sunglasses from Izipizi, they blocked out all light from entering, very helpful for the higher up days when it was so bright and reflecting the snow.
For the gloves, get yourself some merino or polypro liners and then a pair of waterproofs on top – you will need both.
Thick warm, good socks are majorly important for your comfort and warmth, you will walk, sleep and chill in your socks so get some goodies, there is nothing worse than cold feet.

Down Jacket & waterproof pants

Oh lord, my down jacket actually saved my life. I think I would have frozen at the top without it. It also doubled as a battery warmer in my sleeping bag at night, I shoved them in the pockets and slept with it by my side. I chose to wear leggings every day to hike in, one pair was thermal lined from Lululemon, perfect for the colder days. I then bought some genuine fake North Face pants for $25 from a trekking shop in Thamel – again lifesavers from the wind, bitter morning cold and the snow.

Hiking Boots

Do yourself a favour and make sure that these boots are worn in. You will be living in them for the next ten days. You will be walking for at least 6 hours a day, your boots need to be supportive and comfortable. Don’t forget to pack some spare laces, just in case. Here’s a link to the only boots I will ever wear.

A good backpack

Again, you will be walking for hours on end every day so a comfortable hiking backpack is a must. You will be carrying everything that the Porters don’t and you need to be prepared for all weathers. I opted for a 50L backpack for my camera gear but a 28L-30L backpack should be perfect.

Waterbottles

Be sure to pack two 1L bottles so you can fill up and Aquatab your water or pour water from bottles in. You should always have access to 2L of clean water as you hike.

Finally, a good level of fitness and a very strong determined mind is important to bring along. Make sure you train your body before embarking on this trip, walking up stairs and hills is a great way to star. You need to be mentally in this to make it to the top, if this is just a let’s get to base camp trip for you then I would reassess your intentions. This hike is as hard mentally as it is physically, so a strong mental attitude is essential. There may be periods of time where you are walking alone or the air is to thin to chat, if that’s the case, let your mind wander positively in your surroundings.

Most of all, have fun, enjoy the trek and the company. Immerse yourself fully in The Himalayas and create some epic memories.

Check out my packing list here, all products are linked.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Before we left for Nepal I spent hours online looking for the perfect packing list. For a, you must take this otherwise you will die list – you know what I mean? I wanted someone to say what was useful and what wasn’t. Im not going to lie I couldn’t really find anything detailed enough. I relied on friends that had already visited Nepal and I loosely based my list off the G Adventures packing list I blogged about here.

When you book with a company such as G Adventures you will get a weight limit, ours was 10kg. The night before our trek we were handed a black duffle bag, this was our trekking bag that we were to pack and hand to the Sherpas every day. In here goes everything you need for the trek including your sleeping bag, be aware that a porter will be carrying your bag and the key to packing is to eliminate any unnecessary items. Trust me by day 3 you have lost all care and consideration for what you look like and if you need to wear the same clothes twice, you will. For example, during the top three days of the trek, that’s the day before base camp, base camp day and the day after down to Periche, I literally didn’t take my base layers off (I mean I changed my underwear) but that’s as far as it got. I had no desire to expose my skin for any period of time in that cold. Also, forget taking a towel and showering, items such as shampoo and soap can stay behind. One if you shower, you’re crazy, it is so cold and there’s no way to adequately dry your hair, two, its that cold you will struggle to warm up again, three, everyone is in the same boat… just take some decent deodorant!

Now, everyone will be different and it’s important to remember that, but here is a list of everything I packed in my bag with links to the products kindly gifted to me, that way you can choose them for yourself or draw inspiration for your own packing list.

Sophie

Pack rain cover V2 Size Medium Orange

Peak Design – Everyday sling bag 

KMD Core Long sleeve top- Black
Thermo twin pack socks V4 S/M – Forest Brown
Drink bottle, BPA free, 1 liter
Polypro gloves – black
Robin head torch
Pocket rain jacket 

Lowa Maurina boots 
Nike Trainers for in the tea houses
Some people took sandals but I wanted trainers for walking around on the days we didn’t have to hike, I also get cold toes so sandals and socks wouldn’t cut it for me.

Minus 20 Sleeping bag hired from Kathmandu (Thamel)
Up to date Trekking shop Thamel, seven corner, Kathmandu
Email uptodatetrekking@gmail.com

 

Robbie

Altum Goretex men’s raincoat V2 Black

Katabatic Pack V4 28L Chilli pepper/black

Pack rain cover V2 Size Small

KMD Core Long Johns Black

KMD Core Long sleeve top Black

Mens Zeolite leggings Black

Drink bottle BPA free, 1 liter

Thermo twin pack socks V4 M/L – Black

Kathmandu Mornington Men’s NGX boots – Male

Trespass Digby Packable Hooded Down Jacket 

Trespass Blackford Mens pull over fleece

Trespass Packup adult pack away waterproof pants 

Waterproof gloves x 1 from Kathmandu(Thamel)

Mons Royale Beanie

Mons Royale neck warmer

3 x shorts

2 x breathable t-shirts

1 x Merino base layer

2 x long sleeve tops

Clothes to sleep in – base layer, soft cotton pants, socks, long sleeve, and a jumper.

Underwear

Socks – different thickness for cold

Cap – for the sunny lower days

Minus 20 Sleeping bag – Hired from Kathmandu Up to date Trekking shop
Thamel, seven corner, Kathmandu – email uptodatetrekking@gmail.com

Toiletries

First aid kit
Suncream
Hand sanitizer
Baby wipes
Loo roll
Hairbrush
Lip Balm
Concealer
Aqua tabs

In my day bag

This was one of the hardest things to pack, especially for me, due to my insane amount of  gear BUT saying that if you’re not taking cameras and extra cameras then you should be sweet (as everyone else was on our trip) Your day pack can only weigh 7kg because of the flight into Lukla, however, this is a plane collective weight so if yours is a little over – don’t panic. Top tip, don’t fill your water on the check-in side of the airport – that will save you a little bit of weight. It’s also important to remember that you will be carrying this weight for the whole trip, if you are not used to carrying heavy packs then don’t overfill it, just leave the extra snacks behind.

Day pack contents

2 x water bottles

Trekking pole – in the side pocket

Journal, pen, trip documents, money wallet

Peak Design – Everyday sling bag 

Contents – Nikon D750, 24-120mm, 16-35mm, 50mm

Spare Batteries, Memory card, dual charger, leads, plug

iPhone Charger

Go Pro Hero 7

Instax SQ6

50 Pack of film

Wet weather gear

Gloves, pants, jacket,

Long sleeve layer,

Beanie

Rain cover

Head Torch

A personal little bag with concealer, essential oil, lock, also doubled as a place to store my polaroids & sunnies.

OSM snacks & 2 bottles of water in the outer pockets.

Robbie’s day bag 

Wet weather gear

Pants, jacket, gloves, hat

Sunnies

First aid kit / Suncream

2 x water bottles

Snacks

Aqua Tabs

Rain cover

Torch

As Robbie only had clothes in his we did some shuffling every day and distributed the weight between us, which was a life saver. My bag was still considerably heavier but im used to carrying 7kg of camera & laptop gear around with me on the daily. My pack was also amazing! It was so comfortable, big enough on the inside that I could arrange everything and I never felt like I was shoving stuff in there. I did opt for a 50L pack, the recommended is a 30L day pack but I wanted to make sure that I had enough room for my gear. Robbie’s pack was only 28L and if you only have a compact camera or a normal sized camera then this would be plenty big enough.

I can honestly say that everything I took with me gear wise was incredible. I used and needed all of the items above and everything performed exactly how it should. I felt the cold, of course, it was -17 degree’s at the top but my down jacket, beanies, and trusty merino base layers did the job of keeping me toasty warm.

The only thing I wish I had packed was more snacks, I got a little envious when I saw people pulling out the Haribo’s – I mean they shared but this little fatty wanted more than the polite offering of one or two. We did buy Mars Bars and some other treats along the way and to be honest we didn’t even look at the price, you also kinda get over how ‘expensive’ things are closer to the top when you see how they are transported up there. Just pay the $4 for the chocolate and enjoy every bite.

Hopefully, this page will help if you are planning to go to Everest Base Camp or other surrounding hikes. If you have any other questions, don’t hesitate to send them through to me here & I will do my best to answer them.

 

Kathmandu gear testing in Mount Cook NZ before we left 

 

 

 

 

 

New Zealand’s North Island may be the smaller of the two islands but it is blessed with huge diversity and packed with adventure ready to be discovered on your very own New Zealand self-drive tour. From beautiful white sandy beaches in the far north to the black sandy beaches on the wild west coast. Bubbling Geothermal pools, award-winning wine tasting islands and home to famous alpine crossings the North Island definitely has a more local vibe packed with plenty of culture.

Here are ten of the best adventure activities not to be missed on New Zealand’s North Island.

1.Tongariro Alpine Crossing.

Around a three hour drive from the capital, you will find one of New Zealand’s great walks. Maybe the most popular hiking spots on the island, this hike offers stunning views of inactive volcanoes, glaciers and crater lakes. This hike is not one of the easiest hikes and can take between 6-8 hours to complete, you can also complete the circuit over a few days, adding in the extra trails to link through to backcountry huts. All worth it for those spectacular views.

2.Waitomo Caving.

Famous for housing New Zealand’s glow worms, popular little glowing bugs that illuminate our cave networks blue. You can abseil, zip line and blackwater raft all into the abyss. That’s right, you will do all of the above in the dark, but don’t worry the glow worms will lead you out of the cave.

3.White Island.

 White Island or Whakaari is an active volcano. Situated 48km away from the East Coast of New Zealand, in the Bay of Plenty. White Island is arguably the world’s most accessible active marine volcano, attracting all from around the world to take a guided walking tour up and over the Volcano, you will be met with breath-taking views and plenty of steaming vents and craters.

 4.Lake Taupo.

This is New Zealand’s largest lake and a popular spot for those road tripping around the country. Lake Taupo has more than a few hidden gems and one of them is the awe-inspiring Maori Rock Carvings at Mine Bay. There are plenty of hikes around the area, including a hike to Mount Ngauruhoe, famously known as Mount Doom from the Lord of The Rings franchise. You can get your adrenaline fix at one of the skydiving sites and be sure to make the trip to Huka Falls. 

5.Rotorua.

 Full to the brim with action, culture, relaxation, and nature, this geothermal wonderland is in the center of the North Island. From White water rafting, skydiving, hiking Mount Tarawera and hot pools to be discovered. Rotorua is also the hub for travelers to experience the Maori culture first hand, the Maori cultural evenings are an amazing way to learn about the history of the country.

6.Auckland Harbor Bridge Jumping.

New Zealand is the home of Bungy jumping, dating back to 1988 when AJ Hacket decided to jump from the Kawarau Bridge in Queenstown. Now the largest bridge in the North Island is home to one of AJ Hackett’s sites. You can also opt to climb up the bridge to see amazing views of that iconic Auckland skyline.

7.Mount Ruapehu for skiing and snowboarding.

In the Winter months, people flock to the South Island for snow sports. But, the North has it’s very own Ski and Snowboard Resort. Mount Ruapehu hosts Whakapapa and Turoa, the best ski fields in the area, also the home to Tongariro National Park

8.Cathedral Cove.

This spot should be on everyone’s list. Famously used in the Narnia films this beach is a Kiwi favorite in the summer months. The beautiful marine reserve hosts visitors all year round and when you go you will know why. The walk is relatively short and if you visit at Sunset you will get some awesome photographs. Be sure to visit the neighbouring Hot Water beach and dig your own geothermal hot pool in the sand.

9.Sunrise Track.

A beautiful track located in the Ruahine Forest Park in Hawke’s Bay. Popular with the locals, but one that tourists should take the time to complete if you find yourself in the area. A fairly easy half day tramp will lead you through the forest. This is a well-graded track that is also a great overnight tramp for families with children, or if you’re new to tramping a great intro hike.

10.Te Urewera National Park.

Here you will find the Lake Waikaremoana Great Walk. A 44km long track that will take a few days to complete. There are five huts and five campsites on the track that will need to be booked in advance. The track follows the Southern and Western coast of Lake Waikaremoana passing through beautiful native forest and grassland, the track provides epic views over the lake and you will see some of New Zealand’s native Birds, Bats and Fauna.

For more information about booking a New Zealand self-drive tour & awesome activities in the North Island check this link

New Zealand Travel Organiser