Our adventure to snow farm was long overdue. Six years overdue to be exact. We had planned every winter to make the trip over the hill to Wanaka to visit this awesome place, but it never came to fruition. So, we bit the bullet post lockdown, booked the hut, and then went full on backcountry expedition, packed our bags, sleeping bags, and enough snacks to feed the whole of Wanaka should they also make the pilgrimage to the snow farm hut that evening.
It was an exciting time; I mean any trip over the crown range is an exciting adventure & Lake Wanaka is the perfect destination for mountain lovers like myself. I packed up my warm clothes, waterproofs, and my cameras before setting off for the hour drive up to snow farm. The weather gods, so far on our side. Snow Farm is situated on the Mt Pisa ranges, directly opposite Cardrona. It was the first cross-country ski area in New Zealand and they were about to witness a world-first for Sophie Piearcey, cross country skiing rookie.
How hard could it be? We can snowboard, we are familiar with the snow and we hike… surely this would be a walk in the park. Check-in was a quick process and the gear room looked nice and overwhelming, snowboards are our thing, not ski’s. We asked if we needed a lesson it’s easy and we will be fine, the staff told us both. So out into the snow we went. I am so happy we opted for the bag drop to the hut so the extra weight didn’t halt our already pathetic attempt of nailing cross country skiing. We slid around for fifteen minutes, walking back and forward, getting used to the ski, arm movements, and ice under our feet. We hit the trail, all I needed to do was round the corner, away from the base building so my falling into a heap and resembling a dead bug wouldn’t be witnessed by those who actually knew what they were doing.
30 minutes later, yes 30 minutes it took me to get down the first bit of the track but as soon as I rounded the corner I felt good. Now, for those who have never cross country ski’’d before you are in for a real treat. It’s like walking on ski’s on snow, with a few hills thrown in for good measure. The skis are way thinner than ordinary skis and the poles do help to push you along the flat sections. Cross country skiing is a lot like walking, in fact, it is walking but a largely exaggerated walk where you lunge your arms forward to get momentum. When approaching hills you just bend down a little, lean forward, and wait until the hill runs out, then just keep walking. Sounds easy right? It is, I have the bruises to prove it.
Our destination was Meadow hut, a quaint little backcountry hut nestled into the snow farm hills. A network of tracks will lead you through the rolling Pisa Range and tease you at every corner. After a good two and a half hours we rounded what was eventually the last corner. The hut was in sight, down a grassy bank, but in sight. We could carry on and tap on another hour but the urge for tea and some kind of sugary treat was too strong for Soph, so we popped the skis off, chucked them over our shoulders, and made the short trek down the hill to the hut.
Meadows hut sleeps 20 people, with bunks mattresses, and an upstairs area. We were the first to arrive and we had no idea who would be joining us. There was a fire, a log burning fire that on this cold wintery night was greatly received. Kettle, gas hobs, pots, pans, and a sink to wash up, this hut means business. The kettle whistled away as we explored the hut surroundings. The snowmelt was pretty big that weekend which meant we could see the stream at the side of the hut and walk around on the trail leading away without our skis. It was cosy and I fell in love with the charm of this rustic old hut instantly.
Our gourmet dinner of Watties packet pasta, mushrooms, and endless cups of hot tea warmed our cold bodies before we retreated to our sleeping bags. The sun disappeared pretty quickly behind the mountain and the cold set in, we were so grateful for the log fire that kept the hut warm until the morning light.
Whenever on a backcountry adventure, I wake for sunrise, even if it’s predicted cloudy. It was cloudy but some snow flurries just added to the magic of this place. I whipped up a nutritious and delicious oats & honey feast on the stove and we consumed enough tea to keep us hydrated for the day. We packed our bags and left them for the snowmobile to pick up and return to base. The walk up the hill took only a few minutes and before we knew it we were back on the trail, homeward bound. Today was easier, I feel like our flailing and failed attempts yesterday put us in good stead for the morning adventure.
Confidently I asked Robbie to film me walking away and rounding the corner. As soon as I was out of view and earshot I screamed. The hill I had just approached was way steeper than I remembered and I lost my shit. I fell to the floor like a sack of potatoes and Robbie who had the same realization caught up pretty quick. Then I saw the blood and instantly thought Robbie had knocked his teeth out, turns out his pole had scratched the side of his nose, and caused a little blood to splat on the snow. Crisis averted we only managed to stack it once more before returning to the base.
I think it’s safe to say that our cross country skiing adventure was eventful, full of expletives, and one to remember. I felt an immense sense of pride after. We had mastered a new skill, explored new terrain, and embarked on an epic adventure right on our doorstep.
The snow farm team welcomed us back with open arms eager to hear how our first cross country skiing experience went. Eventful was our summary. What an adventure I kept saying to Robie on the way home. We soaked in the last of those alpine views before falling into a coconut hot chocolate and basket of sour cream wedges in the Cardrona hotel, a must-do when passing through the Cardrona Valley.
Until we meet again snow farm, stay awesome. We cant wait to return.
Notes of a Northerner 