Author: Sophie Piearcey

Dingboche – Lobuche

Day 8 and our hiking adventure continues. We woke in the night to Robbie not feeling 100% so we made sure to drink extra water to keep hydrated. We only had one more sleep until base camp and I think the realisation of our altitude gain and challenge had started to kick in. Our wakeup call came at 7 am but I was already up and ready with my bags packed. I woke at 6 am, reluctantly and ventured to a frozen bathroom.

I zipped up our bags and left them in the hallway ready for Deepak and his crew to rope them all together and set off into the hills.  It was COLD this morning. Dingboche had another layer of fresh snow and we sat outside in the early morning light before heading in for breakfast. I had a large lemon tea and although sugary its exactly what my tired eyes needed.

We set off up the same hill as yesterday. When we reached the peak, we started to descend through the valley. It looked like we would be walking relatively flat for the day, however, the valley slowly inclines. As Dingboche disappeared behind us, Ama Dablam got taller. The mountains either side towered above, and we walked for hours passing Yaks, porters, and Everest Base Camp crew, all on their way to actual base camp. We walked very slow today, the cold wind, bitter, ever so grateful for our Mons Royale merino buffs to keep our faces warm.

Two and a half hours later a tiny little place called Thuklar came into view. We crossed a river, which if icy could have been pretty treacherous and up a small hill. Lunch surrounded by the mountains was good. Garlic soup, for the altitude, hot tea, and we shared an egg sandwich, a decent carb load for the afternoon’s ascent.

My chest began to feel incredibly tight. I rooted around for my asthma spray and took myself away to calm down. I couldn’t figure out if my asthma was playing up, I was struggling with the altitude or if I was panicked by the steep hill we could see in the distance. After lunch, we tackled the hill. One hour of pure incline. Cold, steep and slow is how it went. Halfway up I had to put on Robbie’s waterproof pants as my legs were so cold. My waterproofs had slipped under my camera gear and I needed to get warm quick. At the top of the hill sat the memorial for all the folk who had lost their lives on the mountain. The view from the top was incredible, but the memorials, prayer flags, and remembrance plaques quickly brought back a stark realisation that mother nature is powerful, and the mountains can be a very dangerous place. I found Rob Hall’s memorial, a famous kiwi adventurer, his company Adventure Consultants still runs today in Wanaka. If you have seen the film Everest, then you will know Rob Hall’s story.

It was a beautifully eerie place; these people had died, and we stood to remember them, but they died doing something that they love and that brought me some kind of peace. We pushed on to Lobuche. We hiked up and down, but mainly flat for an hour. On route to Lobuche we passed Lobuche east base camp, a fellow kiwi family I know from Instagram in the tents waiting for their son to summit the mountain. I waved even though I knew they couldn’t see me. The weather changed and it clouded over quick, it then started to snow as we crossed icy frozen rivers. We watched the Yaks slip and slide, also trying to navigate the ice patches. As the quaint town of Lobuche came into view so did the storm.

The snow and wind whipped around us. Robbie had to put my waterproof pants on there was no way I was stripping mid storm to give his pants back. We bustled through the tea house door in a group all wanting to get in front of that fire first, but it was out. We begged them to light it early but to no avail. It was freezing but the clock hadn’t hit 4 pm yet, that’s when they would light the fire. It was minus 10.

The tea house centered around the main dining room. Our bedrooms outside and the toilet also, so every time we needed to use the bathroom, we would have to lace up our boots and go outside, through a door and into another room, did I mention it was minus 10?

Finally, the yak poop arrived, and the fire lit up the room. Everyone huddled around closer than ever before, but it was worth it for the heat. Our tea house had other inhabitants, a group of solo hikers from Slovakia. The tea house owners looked like they had stepped out of a film. They had those big fur hats that tie on the top of your head and big long jackets. We later learned that they were from Tibet and are used to living in temperatures colder than what we were experiencing. After dinner Shakar tested everyone’s blood and oxygen levels, ours were good, others not so much but I think being six hours away from base camp kept spirits high and a morale boost for the team.

Before bed we decided to put on thermals, little did I know I wouldn’t take them off for two more days. That night it dropped down to minus 15 and I barely got any sleep. At high altitude, you must drink water and lots of it. I got so paranoid that I would get sick before base camp that I drank two litres before bed and another two through the night, this kept me up but so did the cold. I could not get warm all night, I actually reached into my sleeping bag at one point to check my toes were still there.

Our 5.30 am wakeup call came and our coldest morning so far. Minus 17 was harsh but today was base camp day, I repeat, today we would all together, as a group stand on Everest Base Camp. I was already crying and I hadn’t had my porridge yet.

 

 

Dingboche acclimatisation day

Day seven on our adventure and a very welcomed rest day. I write this as day 7 on the Everest Base camp trek when in fact it is only our fifth day hiking due to being stuck in Kathmandu at the start of the adventure. What should have been our seventh-day hiking is now only our fifth and what should have been our second acclimatization day, it is our first.

At the very start of our Everest journey, we had a little issue with the weather, preventing us from getting to Lukla on time we spent an extra two days in Kathmandu than planned, you can read about it here & here.

So, we have been in the Himalayas for five days, starting in Lukla and making our way to the beautiful Dingboche village. Standing tall above Dingboche is Ama Dablam 6812 metres high and one of the best-looking mountains I have ever seen. We arrived the day before, the day that clouded over and the cold set in. We all stayed awake longer tonight, huddled around the fire swapping stories and drinking tea. We met an Indian man on a two-man mission over the three passes, his hiking stories truly inspirational. Retiring to bed felt good, even though the toilet water had already frozen and the tea house felt like the arctic. The next day being a rest day meant a sweet little lie in for the crew. Waking later and feeling refreshed we had a slow breakfast and prepared for our 600m acclimatization hike.

Even though we had a rest day we still had to hike to prepare our bodies for higher altitude the next day. After a big breakfast, we filled our water bottles, laced up our boots, and stepped out into a bluebird day. The wind chill was real today and Shankar ever so kindly pointed out the huge hill we were about to climb, I will tell you now the view was worth every step of the climb. We hiked slow and together, Kashi upfront as always leading the pack. As we reached the ridgeline, we saw the vast landscape unfolding on the other side. Tiny people hiking in the distance and Yaks spread out across the land, I thought to myself where are those people going? Little did I know that was our route tomorrow. Hiking 600m above Dingboche revealed how small the town was below. We were face to face with Ama Dablam, a mountain that resembles the Matterhorn in shape, majestically towering above us all.

We walked slow and gradually gained altitude. We walked at the back of the group with Shakar who the group had now renamed ‘Big Shanks’. He told us how his father bought land to grow rice, he laughed as he told us his eldest brother moved away to Singapore so now the land will be split three ways. We learnt about his seven-year-old daughter and eleven-year-old boy and how his wife is too expensive, she likes nice things. He said his kids are little bastards as they are spoilt and he laughed, so hard, you know that deep rumbling belly laugh. His conversation distracted us from the 600m, 1.5-hour climb we just tackled. The group sat at the top for 30 minutes, it was epic. The view, incredible, the group even more so. We sat high at 4760m and it will go down as one of the most scenic nature pees’ I will ever take. The wind bitter so all the girls had waterproof pants and wind jackets on, our outfits a sight for sore eyes.

We took a little longer than the others on the descent as I couldn’t stop taking photos. The light dusting of snow from the night before made the landscape so magical. Big Shanks let us walk alone at the back of the group knowing we would eventually retreat for hot tea. We both couldn’t believe the views, I felt very lucky.

Lunch consisted of homemade tomato soup and a side of boiled potatoes and I sat in the corner with Mads and Siobhan talking anything and everything. A rest day, after your acclimatization hike, is exactly that but we decided to wrap up and walk through the village. We stocked up on cheap KitKats and water and then found a café. They let us charge everything for free and we bought so many hot drinks while Tucker smashed everyone at Chess. Our afternoon spent warming around a Yak poop-filled fire made the day slip away. Our group, hands down a bunch of absolute legends, every day was filled with laughter and the card game ‘bullshit’ was the mood lifter we all needed.

The day went fast and before we knew it dinner time rolled in. Garlic soup is excellent for altitude sickness and we had two large bowls, with a side of vegetable noodles and fries. We felt extra indulgent. It started to snow outside, and I had an overwhelmingly good rush over me. It was such a great feeling to be sat around a fire with good people, in a beautiful place surrounded by epic mountains.

After a final goodnight from our crew and a clear weather check for the morning, we settled into our sleeping bags one more time. I felt very blessed and very lucky to be here.

The day Aotearoa stood still – 26th March 2020

Lockdown day 1 is here. This is how I started this blog, and, on the 26th March, I wrote that one sentence and I closed my laptop. For five weeks this word document sat unopened on my desktop, why? Because I had no words, I dint know what to think and I certainly had no energy to write.

I thought I would come up with a blog post that would inspire, help, and soothe the worried souls but the truth is that I have nothing, sorry I rephrase, I had nothing.

Shopping centres, parks, and restaurants shut their doors. Entire workforces sent home to work if they can, others told to sit tight. The burden of financial pressure mounting, redundancy, job loss, and the vulnerable falling sick. Children are homeschooled, the stock market plummets, and our borders closed. Flights are now grounded, and you only leave the house if you are an essential worker. The sound of someone coughing in the supermarket had others whispering. There were no smiling faces and if they were, we couldn’t see them behind the masks and the gloves. We downloaded house party, the whole world did, and we spent time facetiming our loved ones across the pond. Our conversations short, sweet, or long and full of hope. We got creative, we baked, we ran out of yeast on the South Island. Our passion projects came to play, and we focused on our fitness, but other days were spent under blankets with hot water bottles and headaches. Some days we made it through with a smile, some days didn’t even get dressed. We start and end emails with I hope you’re well and the word bubble and stay home frequent our sentences. The world, our world, Aotearoa stood still for five whole weeks.

Today, the 4th May 2020 we watched as Dr. Ashley Bloomfield came on stage to deliver his daily 1 pm update. Kia Ora koutou katoa, he starts with every time. Today, New Zealand we have no new cases of Covid-19 to report, we have no probable cases, no new deaths, and no one in ICU. It was at that moment I burst into tears. The light at the end of the tunnel just flashed and I could picture an end to this, I felt like the world had been lifted off my shoulders for a short second.

Anxiety is a beast and it’s been thriving it’s butt off in this type of environment. The last week no exception, it came with a whirlwind of emotions. I had the next year of our life planned. Travel, wedding, house buying, Europe, international and national jobs, wedding part two and so much more but all of this doesn’t matter when the world is falling apart around you. People are sick, that’s what matters. Your health, your family, and friend’s health and their safety become the priority. I stopped thinking about work and where my next invoice would come from.

It’s a highly stressful time for all, where we all silently sit and search for answers. Little did we know, that during the months that have been and the months that follow the entire world would find itself singularly focused on that very search. It is so important to remember that us humans, that’s you and your loved ones are resilient things. If anything, this will make us stronger. Hidden in the depths of all the pandemic madness is a silver lining, our light at the end of the tunnel. Now more than ever the world is united, we are literally in this together. I don’t agree that we are in the same boat, but we are most certainly paddling in the same storm. The entire world is working as one to help each other and to be blunt come out of this shit show soon.

Today marks a new normal. A new normal with media praising our efforts, lighter news stories, and the beauty of a new world unfolding in our current surroundings. From one world citizen to another I beg you to take a deep breath and think deeply about what you want to put back into your life. This is your chance; this is our chance to define a new version of normal. We are now able to rewrite our future, the future we want. Find what works for you and others around you, take parts of your lockdown life, and integrate them into your new freedom. Work, live, and love slower, be compassionate, be kind to yourself, to others and the world.

Take a moment to regain your power and banish your anxious mind. You are not alone, we are one, we are resilient, we are kind and we are fearless.

Be patient, take your time. The world will be ready and waiting to hear from you.

 

 

Only an hour away from Kyoto is the bustling city of Osaka. Rivalling Tokyo for its bright lights, markets, and vibe, Osaka was the next stop on our Japan adventure. The city oozes charm and has an awesome easy-going vibe, not only is there loads to see there is LOADS to eat and we made our way around the town like we hadn’t eaten for a week.

We left Gion early. We only had the afternoon and one full day to fully explore around Osaka. I had my heart set on visiting Universal Studios but we decided that it would have to wait until next time, we had a good reason but I had longed to see the Harry Potter exhibit in a theme park for years, there’s always next time though right? Our train from Kyoto station totaled one hour, we then switched to another local JR line and exited at Namba station. It was so easy and we walked out into a bustling city street ready to find our hotel.

The hotel was easily one of the best it was pretty fancy and very reasonably priced. It was a short walk from Dontonburi, the downtown main hub of Osaka. With check-in not till 3 pm, we wandered the streets looking for food and somewhere to relax. Starbucks in Japan made the most delicious Christmas themed coffee and our afternoon hot drinks frequented there. As we sat and watched the world go by below I hit up google for a street market. Due to timings and location we, unfortunately, missed visiting the famous Tokyo fish market but don’t sweat, if you’re coming to Osaka then you are in luck. The Kuromon Ichibamarket is amazing! From our comfy warm seats in Starbucks, we walked twenty minutes to the entrance of the market. We didn’t know what to expect, once inside it was an overload on all senses. The smells, the sound, sight, and taste of everything was mindblowing. We had just wandered into Osaka’s biggest food market and it was a maze. Seafood, sushi, hot food, oysters, crab legs, fruit, everything you could imagine was here and they are selling it in the truckloads. Some of the fish there, well, I’ve never seen a fish that big in my life. We wandered around, had a sushi burger, and watched the auctioning of fish. The Japanese, so passionate about their seafood and fresh produce inspecting their goods before taking them away to be prepared at a restaurant no doubt that night. The market kept us busy for hours, walking through the 600m long halls. We then happened upon an arcade and shopping centre where I purchased chopsticks from a culinary stock room, cheap and a great little souvenir. Exhausted from the food sampling and people watching we took the late afternoon off exploring.

Dotonbori is the bright heart of Osaka, The canal and the street light up at night and it feels like a fairground. Well known for its neon, extravagant signs, and eateries it is the perfect place to go for a night-time wander. We spent so much time wandering around and watching the lights and moving objects, our favourite being a huge crab on the wall. It was here in Osaka that we enjoyed our first Tempura dinner. We happened upon a small restaurant on the outskirts of the neon lights. We both had a tempura bowl, noodle ramen soup, miso soup and rice, so much food and so cheap. It was god damn delicious, so much so that we went back the next night.

We swapped Universal Studios for something equally as exciting, a sunrise alarm. We fumbled around in the dark, got ready and after a warming vending machine coffee we descended into Namba station. The Japan Rail pass line direct to Nara Park was our plan, we had some Deer friends to visit. The train is about 30 minutes long and at the other end we jumped on a bus for 400 Yen return, this dropped us right at the entrance to Nara Park. I think in every single blog I have said, get here early, get anywhere early if you want to avoid the crowds. On the bus we got our first sighting of deer as they walked down the street among the people, occasionally stopping to sniff the trees or take a lie down. Off the bus and my excitement peaked, the Deer were everywhere. I refrained from buying the cracker snacks used to entice them over and walked around the whole park. It was magical, honestly, it was magic. Nara Park is home to over 1000 free-roaming Deer. They wander around the park and the surrounding streets looking for food. The Deer are tame and will approach you, with or without food. They also bow, it is the cutest thing in the world, however, they move on when they realise you are no good to them without snacks in hand.

We spent two hours walking around the park. The Todaiji Temple, the world’s largest wooden structure is located on the park grounds, it’s a UNESCO world heritage site and very beautiful. The Autumn colours and early morning light is every photographer’s dream and I spent the majority of my time behind the camera. I honestly didn’t want to leave. Arriving before 9 am meant we had a relatively quiet morning. As soon as 10 am chimed in so did the tour buses and school groups, after a little longer in the park and watching people get chased by the Deer we decided it was time to leave.

The bus and train had us back in Osaka in less than an hour and we went straight back to the market for lunch. The market was noticeably quieter today, maybe not a big trading day or we missed the rush but our favourite sushi burger joint was open. I had a huge tempura prawn and Robbie sashimi tuna, honestly we could have smashed more than one each but I held back knowing that a delicious Osaka dinner would be waiting.

The beauty of the Japan Rail Pass is that in many cities you can use the pass on local lines. We took the opportunity and jumped on the Osaka Loop Line to Osakajokoen station. Here we walked for half an hour through the park’s gardens before winding up to the Osaka castle. It is a beautiful structure and sitting above the gardens and looking out gave us so much perspective for the old and the new Japan, sitting peacefully side by side. Guess where we ended up again? Starbucks Christmas coffees took a hit in our travel budget but a white chocolate mocha on a cold wintery day made all my troubles melt away. Worth every cent.

I convinced Robbie to eat at the tempura bar again even though we wanted to sample the street food. Osaka is famous for Takoyaki. They are a kind of dumpling made from grilled puffs with octopus meat in the middle, the sauce and seasoning sweet and everyone, everyone was buying them. We passed in Osaka thinking we would try them elsewhere and I tucked happily into a huge bowl of vegetables, deep-fried, tempura vegetables that is.

We had another bullet train ride in the morning. Nagano, our second to last stop in the mountains was around five hours away. The JR team at Osaka station sorted our tickets and seats and we retreated again for what felt like an early night. I rewarded my packing skills with another 7/11 donut. Honestly, I just ate for 12 days straight and I have no regrets.

Welcome to the first local’s local scoop. This space is intended to educate, inspire and share more about the lovely locals who inhabit our land. I want to shine a light on what they are doing in business and everyday life.

First up, two of my favourite ladies. Amanda & Amelia from Arrowtown hair. Owner and head stylist have joined forces to create something beautiful & it doesn’t stop in the salon. Read on to find out more about why I find these two so inspiring.

Arrowtown hair is quietly tucked away in the quaint backstreets of Central Otago’s most picturesque township. Their beautifully decorated space is worlds away from the hustle and bustle of Queenstown’s tourist scene and is the place to go for the ultimate relaxation experience.

After a two-year-long love affair, I can safely say that I have never had a hair experience like this one. The atmosphere is so inviting as is that of the beautiful people that work there. Welcome to your new haven and a place that cares not just about you and your needs but the needs of our Earth. The Arrowtown hair team implemented methods into their work and home life that have a direct positive impact on our environment. It is apparent in their approach to everything they do that they strive for the best sustainable options within their business.

With plants and greenery adorning the walls, books about eco-living and a workforce so full of knowledge it makes a refreshing change to be surrounded by beautifully like-minded people in a space that instantly instills calm. However, their expertise do not stop within the salon walls. Introducing Our WAI.  A social page creating a holistic community for the hair industry. Here you will find videos, blog posts, recipes, photographs and inspiring messages about lifestyle, wellbeing, culture, and care. It’s a retreat for you, a learning platform and a place to go for sustainability inspiration.

In salon, they have ditched the standard salon tin foils. Amanda, the owner created Paper Not Foil four years ago and I’m here for it. Not only do they feel so much better on your head than heavy aluminum foils, but they are reusable. The paper is recyclable, user friendly and the ability to wash them up to three times means little waste, in fact when they can’t be used in the hair they get turned into notepads for the salon. Paper Not Foil is the world’s first sustainable hair foil, researched and developed in New Zealand. Making Paper re-useable increases its sustainable benefits, reduces salon waste and salon costs.

I sat down with Amanda and Amelia to ask them a few questions about business and life in general…

What inspires you in business?

Amanda: Sharing knowledge, inspiring people and seeing success in my team.

Meli: Creating something for yourself! That you have passion for & are proud of.

Why have you made the move to a conscious business model?

Amanda: By practicing conscious living at home and in our other businesses it made sense to bring this into our workplace. It’s part of our story to always be conscious and holistic, it’s new and we are learning as we go.

Meli: I’d say my version of a conscious business model is kindness. Making a safe & relaxed space for people to work and create. Allowing balance in their life.

What major changes have you made in the salon?

Amanda: Ethically sourced and organic products, a strong reuse, reduce recycle policy,  Safe chemicals. A holistic approach to supporting staff and our community thus supporting our locals. Providing an up-cycled, greener space to work in, minimising waste and a simple environment, watching what we bring in impacts what goes out. Educating our clients on more sustainable choices… just to name a few.

Meli: The change to Ammonia free Organic colour & hair care range. Cut out tin foil completely and changed to Paper Not Foil for over 2 years now. We stopped the use of chemicals in the salon, creating our cleaning products with natural ingredients and essential oils. We had a beautiful refurb that brought us a plant haven & trying to share more content with people that is hair but also wellness related!

What impact do you wish to have on the industry?

Amanda: I want to reduce and help lower the impact on our environment by sharing with other hairdressers and community to help them also make small changes, providing a more sustainable industry for our future.

Meli: Probably the same answer to if you were to ask me what impact I wish to have on the world, to show kindness & love. To the community, as well as the earth.

Where did the idea for paper not foil come from?

Amanda: Wrapping my children lunches with baking paper! Had to be better then tin foil??? I couldn’t purchase a fully sustainable version so I spent 4 years developing it! Paper that is made of recycled industrial waste, not trees! And it is so much easier to use. We have clients come to us simply because they don’t want tin foil used on their hair, which is brilliant. We were throwing away 3km of foil a month, even if it could be recycled it takes huge emissions. Reusing is key and then when it’s completely ready to throw away it has no detriment to our environment.

What inspires you in everyday life?

Amanda: Helping others & sharing & getting results from sustainable choices.

Meli: How beautiful life is, in the way the earth changes through every moment of the day. The connections you create & build with people, who become your family & are on their own special individual journey.

If you could give one piece of advice what would it be?

Amanda: Be kind!

Meli: Love yourself & find your truth by doing so

What has New Zealand’s lockdown taught you?

Amanda: That we need to take more care of ourselves and our environment! Stop, listen and learn! We can’t go back to the normal and the normal should be better?

Meli: That I have time. Or well, I create my time & choose the importance of it. It has taught me what is important for me, to stay balanced in who I am & in life. To be creative, playful & remove all judgment. It has also taught me a lot about connection, & just like love, you can’t expect to be connected with another without being truthfully connected to yourself.

What is your top tip for a more sustainable life?

Amanda: Reuse, shop local and choose more ethical ways of living.

Meli: Slowing down to find balance within work & life. Find creativity in something! & spending time doing what you love, that’s my three tips.

What are you most looking forward to after lockdown is over?

Amanda: Seeing my team, friends, family and client’s & get back to supporting people. Buying plants, seeds and potting mix… and getting a coffee!

Meli: A coconut latte for sure! To see the people I love! & I’m also a real traveller, I love my overseas trips (Like you) But I’ve fully surrendered to that not happening any time soon and I’m totally okay with it, I’m excited for what’s to come in New Zealand, for the local community support & us all spending more time within this beautiful country.

Do you have anything else you would like to tell us about business / work / salon / life?

We will be really focussing on community help when we get back to work and really trying to support people in need! Giving away our skills not only in the salon but also helping people who are struggling – doing gardens, pick up drop-offs, cleaning windows, babysitting etc.

Can you see now why I love the girls at Arrowtown Hair so much? You can book your own Arrowtown Hair experience with my favourite ladies right here

Follow them on social media here & here, spread the love and pay them a visit when you can.

Photo Credit @darkbelgiumchocolate  

Our longest train journey was just about to begin. We had made it safely from Fuji to Otsuki station and eagerly waited for the arrival of our first Shinkansen train, the bullet train. Before leaving Tokyo, we booked our tickets for Fuji and onward to Kyoto. The Japan Rail Pass staff are so helpful, even printing us out a little paper ticket with train times and stations listed, making moving through the train stations so easy.

We spent three days in Kyoto staying in the Gion Higashi House, we booked it on booking.com  , it was around $340 for three nights and worth every dollar. Such an awesome little hotel room and it was a great location for the subway, the sights and the best Ramen in Kyoto. We arrived pretty late, so our main port of call was finding the hotel and finding food. The further south we moved the colder it became, and I couldn’t face wandering the streets looking for our tiny hotel entrance. We eventually found it after trusty google maps sent us on a little goose chase down the back alley. We checked in and straight back out in search for Ramen. Our hotel sat just on the outskirts of the old town Gion however we saved that for a proper walk around the next day.

We saw a queue outside a small restaurant, taking that as a good sign and that they had vegetarian Ramen listed we quickly joined the line. Shown to our table quicker than we thought and a hot steamy bowl of Ramen appeared not long after. I opted for the vegetarian bowl, it had extra poached eggs, rocket and parmesan on top it sounds odd, but I kid you not it was the best Ramen so far. We went to bed with a very full, very happy stomach each.

The next morning, we went on a bakery hunt. Our bakery tradition carried through the whole trip in fact it became that much of an obsession that every time we smelt baked goods we didn’t stop until finding them. The vending machine coffee was easily located right outside the door of our hotel giving us fuel we needed to walk to cold streets at 8.30 am. We jumped into the first bakery we saw and had an array of treats, in fact Robbie had pastries and a full egg & toast breakfast.

Now Kyoto is the place to head to experience historic and ancient Japan. It is very much Japan’s cultural capital, think shrines, beautiful Japanese gardens and an intriguing blend of old and new. We spent the morning walking around the beautiful gardens and shrines on the outskirts of Gion. We also happened upon a traditional Japanese wedding at the Yasaka shrine. The guy carrying the huge parasol was a firm crowd favourite. It felt like the people getting married were of status, they had a huge procession and getting married in this beautiful shrine must be only for those of status. The mother of the bride looked calm and somewhat reserved. It was a real privilege to watch as the bride and groom entered the square. We left quickly after, exploring further into the gardens of the shrine.

We took the afternoon to wander the streets of Gion, visiting the incredibly popular Hokan-Ji temple. This street is SO popular, I mean the people are everywhere but it felt good. Its such a beautiful structure and a definite pinch me moment. We watched as others enjoyed the scene and made their memories. One of my favourite things abut travel is that we can all enjoy these beautifully historic places together. I sampled some weird and wonderful food and pushed our way through the crowds of women dressed up in traditional clothes as Geishas. It would be rare to see a real-life Geisha now, especially in the daytime as they don’t get the privacy they deserve so tend to stay away from the bustling streets of Gion.

I had a few spots in Kyoto I wanted to visit, one being the Arashiyama bamboo forest. We figured out our train route while laid in bed that night and set our alarms for a sunrise mission to the forest. We made it to the train station early yet managed to miss our first train. I didn’t recognise the number on the train resulting in us having to wait an extra 30 minutes for the next train. I probably shouldn’t skip that morning caffeine hit. Like most touristy places in Japan they get busy, very busy, so getting there early was a priority. A short walk from the train station leads us to the ever so peaceful and beautiful Arashiyam Bamboo forest, luckily, we had beaten the crowds and got the chance to explore this place quietly.

The Japanese are famous for their meditation, healing and using their surroundings to help them on their life journey, forest bathing being one of them. Now don’t worry we didn’t strip nude and bathe together we just walked slowly, calmly and with the wind through the Bamboo Forest. We explored further into the forest and stumbled across this incredibly beautiful autumnal picture-perfect scene. I imagine many come to the forest and leave as soon as they have snapped some photos in the groves, but I highly recommend spending more time in this area, there is so much more to see.

We spent two hours following the maze of paths around the forest revealing more and more beautiful views and showing us the natural side of Japan sometimes overlooked. It made me want to plan a trip back to Japan to explore deep into the backcountry.

Next on our Kyoto list was a visit to the Fushimi Inari Shrine. It is comprised of thousands of bright red Torii gates meandering gently up the Inari hillside. We arrived at the train station with the rest of Kyoto. It was SO busy. We pushed our way through a busy food market and found the entrance. We walked through the Torii gates, followed the masses and stopped for minimal photos. This place is the epitome of tourism and to get a clear photograph with no one in the shot was very, very difficult. I suggest if the shrines are on your photography to do, then get here at sunrise. After spending some time in the higher, quieter shines we retreated for snacks and a wander around Pontocho, a quiet, leafy, canal-lined suburb, a stark difference to where we were an hour ago.

On our first night in Kyoto we had passed an equally popular Ramen restaurant with a queue down the street. Tonight, we had the chance to get in and it was incredible. From the signed napkins on the wall, we figured this was a popular hangout for some Japanese A-listers and as we sat and waited, we watched an old lady enjoy dinner with her daughter. Not only did we pick up some excellent chopstick skills but watched that universal fight between mother and daughter to pay for the bill. The food, okay back to the food, because it’s so god damn delicious I don’t think I can eat anything Japanese again unless from Japan. Kyoto is well known for its Ramen and man is it good. This was also the second place I found vegetarian Ramen, hallelujah! I have nothing more to say on the ramen apart from its bloody good.

We waddled back to our hotel room, armed with sweet donut style treats from the family mart and packed up the suitcases and our adventure in Kyoto. On route back to the hotel we saw a real-life Geisha. She emerged from a hotel complex, straight into a taxi and didn’t make eye contact with anyone. She sat so poised and beautiful in the back of the taxi as it drove away. Robbie could now say he had seen a real Geisha after two days of asking ‘is that a real one’ every time we saw someone in traditional dress.

Sleeping to the sound of pattering raindrops on our hotel room roof sent us into a Ramen filled deep sleep ready for our next adventure to Osaka tomorrow.

Thyangboche – Dingboche

We did exactly as we were told. We got up for sunrise. It was cold, very, very cold as we stumbled around the dark room fumbling for merino layers, our down jackets, and my camera bag. Most teas house rooms are made up of thin wooden walls and floor. Everything is wood, there is no insulation making your sleeping bag and down jacket your best friend during this whole experience.

Walking down the hallway of the tea house tip-toeing the whole way as to not wake the other hikers still silently sleeping before lacing up our boots and heading into the cold morning. It hit my face and travelled down into my chest, bitterly cold air circulated me before turning into a warm pocket in my down jacket.

The clouds were still a little low, so we turned up the path behind the tea house and walked for ten minutes. We followed a little light trail that eventually broke through the cloud and showed us the incredible mountain ranges surrounding the village of Thyanboche. Soon we forgot about how cold it was as we watched the sun dance over the mountains and the sleeping little town come to life. I can see now why Shankar was so adamant we rose with the sun this morning. Slowly the clouds started to lift all around us setting us up for another day with perfect trekking conditions. I knew that the rest of our crew would be waking, and we still had to pack our Sherpa bags, eat breakfast and get ready for the day ahead.

We both tucked into a hearty breakfast with bread, eggs, and porridge. I warmed my body with an extra-large lemon zinger (lemon ginger honey) and copious amounts of tea. As you climb higher in altitude the prices on each tea house menu also climb. Not that I ever found it expensive and when you watch how goods make it to these remote villages your concept of pricing slowly diminishes. Breakfast today with a bottle of water for the first part of our day cost me $11 NZD, just a little over six English pounds.

I could see the sunlight beaming through the mountains and a very impressive mountain range in the distance. We grouped up outside and Shankar pointed out Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam all lined up as if waiting for our arrival. The morning started with a walk through an icy forest, the mud had frozen overnight and our downhill stint was one hour of slip and slip.

The views today did not disappoint. They got better and better as the day progressed and we spent the majority of today’s hike enjoying some classic Nepali flat. Our first tea stop brought us many dogs and snacks. We also found our Sherpas having a rest, they quickly packed up our stuff and ran into the hills once more. They move quickly, four times the speed we do, and they always get our bags safely to the next location in plenty of time. After a break, we walked for around two hours, easily the most scenic two hours of the day and we crossed one very impressive swing bridge. Ama Dablam guided us to the village of Dingboche. Tomato soup, fried vegetable potatoes, and the sweetest wooden tea house greeted us for lunch. Kashi, our lead guide said only two hours left to Dingboche so setting off on our last stint spirits high, everyone in the group cracking jokes and we kept each other motivated. Water breaks became more frequent as did our nature pee’s, safety in numbers the girls scouted for the best rock, the boys well, boys will be boys.

The landscape dramatically changed, we literally could have just transported to the peak district in England and I would know no difference. The clouds and mist had started to roll in over what was now a very barren landscape. The path became very brown and barren, the hills rolled around us, it felt vast and never-ending. Shankar made us climbed higher than the village below, an extra 200m. Climb high, sleep low. That’s what the moto is.

Everything quickly covered in the cloud and it started to lightly snow, this was a typical weather pattern for us. We hiked early in beautiful but cold sunshine then as 3 pm hit the clouds and cold rolled in for the night. We arrived in Dingboche village at 4.30 pm and had dinner around 6.30 pm. Those hours in between we warmed by the fire and walked to a local shop to buy snacks.

We went big for dinner, I was starving, and the extra two hours rest had made my headache come in a little. I ordered garlic soup, chips & fried eggs and chapati to dip into everything. The fire started to die down a little, so we asked for a little wood. Instead, a huge silver bowl filled with Yak poop presented itself and we fueled our fire with shit, delightful.

I tried to stay awake as long as possible but the lights in the room brought on a headache, so I called it a day at 8.30 pm. I chugged down 1L of water and more through the night, but thankfully only had to make one chilly dash to the bathroom. Tomorrow was our first acclimatization day on the trek, a day to rest and let our bodies get used to where we were. Due to our dramatic attempts to reach Lukla in the early days we missed our Namche Bazaar acclimatization day and would miss a stop on the way down too, none of this mattered right now though as I snuggled down in my -20 sleeping bag ready for another awe-inspiring day in the mountains.

I wrote in my diary, ‘Best day on the trip so far’ I stand by this now.

 

 

Before anyone gets on a plane and visits a new country, they do their research, right? You plan your itinerary, the hotspots, the must-see and for me, I always have a list of none negotiables. The places that no matter how hard it might be to get there, I must see because you never know if you might get to visit again. Mount Fuji was one of my none negotiables. Our route took us from Tokyo to Fuji, then further south to Osaka and Kyoto before looping round into Nagano and back to Tokyo. The Japan Rail system is bloody brilliant. It’s easy to use, efficient and connects you with all those places you need to visit. When researching how best to get to Mount Fuji we quickly realised it wasn’t going to be an easy one. The Japan rail pass only covers you so far, then you have to take a private train and a bus to get into the town, we then had to navigate the quaint little back streets of Kawaguchiko to find our accommodation, did I mention it was raining yet?

So, we started at Shibuya station, hopped on the Yamanote line to Shinjuku station and then through to Otsuki on the JR line. This train only took an hour. We arrived at Otsuki station, found the right platform and bought new tickets for the next train. The train down to Kawaguchiko station is not covered by the JR pass, our ticket cost 1170 Yen each. It was so easy to transfer, the staff are very helpful and we settled in on the Anime themed train. This one felt like a shuttle, like a tube carriage of you will and again only an hour down to Kawaguchiko.

The train was pretty full and as we rolled out of the station my heart sank. It was raining so hard we couldn’t see a thing. Pulling up at Kawaguchiko station and Fuji was nowhere to be seen. She was hiding from us and all that we could see was rain clouds, rain, and more rain.

Our Ryokan was a little too far to walk so we hopped on the public bus. If the Japanese are known for anything it is their insane organisation, practicality and efficient nature. They had a colour-coded bus system, pick up a map, find your area, match it with the colour of the bus, stand and wait for the said bus, grab a ticket, pay and get off when told. It was so easy. We used the green line from the station, our tickets only 160 each way. If we had extra time here, then the sightseeing 2-day unlimited bus pass would have been great. Off the bus and navigating the back streets of the town. The rain was pretty heavy, and we had no idea what our accommodation looked like. We had booked a Ryokan, a traditional Japanese inn. It had tatami-matted floors, our futon rolled up in the corner and a communal bath area. Let’s just say I didn’t shower here, I just couldn’t bring myself to sit in the nude on a stool with others, Robbie however in his element.

Even though the rain was preventing any Fuji views or enjoyable times we put on our coats and went for a walk around the lake. Man, it was miserable, but we were in Japan and refused to let anything get us down. After a soggy outing to the nearest 7/11 store for food and supplies for later, we found a quaint little café on the edge of the lake. I felt like I had stepped into my nans living room. We set up camp and I browsed trinkets from the shop next door, and I bought one of the most beautiful pieces of material I have ever seen, perfectly printed was Mount Fuji and the rising sun. I love buying mementos from our travels that will one day cover the walls of our house.

We drank tea, ate cake and watched as the rain lashed the windows and continued on its grey covering of lake Kawaguchiko. The sweet old lady who owned the tea shop came over to clear our tea and I asked her where Fuji sat. She pointed out of the window to a cloud of nothing. I asked her again where we could see Fuji if the sun was out, somehow, she understood me. She pointed out the other window over the lake. I knew our chances of seeing Fuji today were thin, but I wanted to be prepared for sunrise.

We left and walked towards where our new friend suggested. On a map, I thought it would be too far and my sunrise mission would also be cancelled. Our walk to and over the bridge didn’t take long at all and we were satisfied that in the morning it would only take around twenty minutes to the spot for a sunrise session with Mount Fuji. We later settled into our cosy Ryokan with store-bought Ramen and waited for the rain to pass. I woke around 5 am, got ready, wrapped up warm and headed out into a crisp wintery morning.

OH HOLY MOLY. There she was, smack bang on our doorstep was Mount Fuji. I worried that when we stepped outside, we wouldn’t know where she was. How wrong I could have been. Mount Fuji is huge, she dominated the town and is a wonderful sight to see. It was freezing, absolutely bone-chilling cold, what should have taken around twenty mins walking took ten and we made it to the shores of the lake pretty sharpish.

We found old rowing boats tied to the tree’s and a perfectly framed clearing to spend our morning, or at least until the sun fully came up and our fingers called out for a vending machine coffee. Surprisingly only one other photographer joined our little clearing, I took some shots for him and we slowly retreated to the town. We had time to wander closer to Fuji, grab a hot can of coffee and stroll to the 7/11 for hot cheese toasties.

With our cases packed up and a time to spare we paid a final visit to our old tea lady friend. She was as delighted as us to see the sunshine and that we got to see Mount Fuji. Although we spent limited time here it was worth the extra cash and train ride. The only other place we missed out on here was the famous hillside Pagoda, but there’s always next time, right?

Our train times had been planned perfectly. We could take the train, get back to Otsuki, change twice more and we would be in Kyoto.

The bus back to the station cost use 250 Yen each and the train to Otsuki was 1170 Yen each. As we queued for what we thought was our train we then got asked to pay an extra 200 Yen. The queue was huge, and I didn’t ask why I just wanted to move away from an impatient line of people pushing to the platform. I paid the 400 Yen and stood on the platform soaking in those last Fuji moments to myself.

A beautiful historic-looking train pulled up and we were told to take a seat. Turns out we paid an extra 400 for a tourist sightseeing train and I wasn’t the least bit mad about it. The train was so beautiful, full of character and comfortable, it made our hour ride back to Otsuki station a little lighter on the heart as Mount Fuji finally disappeared from my view. Robbie was pretty happy that our next train was the famous Shinkansen, bullet-style train. These trains are so awesome and very, VERY fast. We stocked up on sushi and snacks before settling into our first big train journey.

Namche Bazar – Thyangboche

Our wakeup call came a little later today and let me tell you this, everyone in the group was very happy about it. 7 am up, 7.30 am downstairs and 8 am leave for Thyangboche. After a hearty porridge breakfast and some serious eggs on toast breakfast envy, I packed up my day back and waited patiently for ‘Jam Jam’. This was our call to move, Jam Jam politely means get a move one, come on, we are off in Nepalese. The clock ticked 8.30 am and we left through the back door of the Tea house and up over Namche Bazaar. The view was pretty breathtaking. The mountains previously covered in the low cloud revealed themselves in the early morning light and it made the short steep hill hike from the get-go a little more bearable.

The view from above was amazing and the views all day took everyone by surprise. The mountains on good form and the road to Thyngbonche a very, very picturesque one. We paid a small amount of money, a donation to an old guy guarding the road. His family had been responsible for maintaining the road we were about to walk for the morning for the past 70 years.

The road was a little bit flat, a little bit up and a little bit down, classic Nepali flat as the guides called it. We quickly had our first snack and water break under a colourful Pagoda, the Pagoda had eyes painted on, she was watching us. I kept my eyes firmly on the prize. Everest, Lhotse and Ama Dablam made up a pretty epic horizon line far in the distance. As I was staring out, longingly at our mountain friends, Kashi, our pacesetter pointed into the distance, up and over the hill and squinting I could just make something out. “We go there” Oh lord, I thought to myself that is very far away. Our second tea stop came after we completed the road, just before a pretty long descent. We sat outside on a long table and slowly enjoyed a hot steamy cup of lemon, ginger and honey tea in a Peter rabbit mug. I also bought a Mars Bar, it was the best mars bar I’ve ever had, the view might have had something to do with it. Our host was an Everest Sherpa, he summited Everest multiple times and quite frankly was an absolute legend. He raised and saved enough money to set up his house right there on the trail and retire from being a Sherpa and now host trekkers, oh, and his daughter now studies in Europe. He was a very proud man and I was kind of starstruck by his accomplishments.

We continued along the road for around half an hour before the big descent. A good solid hour of downhill followed, it was tough on the old knees. At the bottom a huge communal lunch greeted us. Dahl Baht power for everyone. When clearing the plates away I met a young girl. The tiny wee thing let me pick her up and down and shake her around, her laugh was incredibly infectious, it was so beautiful. I love how there is a universal language through laughter and playing with children. Even up here in the Himalayas, all the kids want to do is play.

The two-and-a-half-hour climb that followed our lunch break continued with high spirits. Tucker kept us entertained with his music, Ed pulled through with the jokes and Kashi set a very, very slow pace through the relentless switchbacks. About an hour away from Thyangboche, Kashi said we should have a break. We could see a storm rolling in far in the distance and he was keen to get up to the town to catch the monks in the monastery, more for us than him, I think. We made it to Thyangboche in 40 mins and it felt good. We rushed to the monastery but we, unfortunately, missed the monks. We did however take the time to sit below the beautifully decorated and adorned walls before needing to leave due to the cold wooden floors.

Our whole group ordered large hot lemon, ginger and honey tea to warm through our tired and freezing bodies. Our dinner was incredible. Garlic soup, vegetable Momo’s and a large plate of chips with fried eggs on top, we felt like we had hit the teahouse kitchen jackpot.

I sat by the fire writing in my journal and listening to Shankar, our guide, talk to his friends. The storm had caught up with us when inside the monastery and he was gutted we wouldn’t be able to see the stars or the best view on the trek. He checked his phone and told me that getting up for sunrise was a good idea, so I charged my phone to set an alarm.

We retreated to bed with a lot of water, small headaches had started to creep in, and we didn’t want to risk anything, even if it meant that we had multiple cold dashes to the toilet through the night. I fell asleep to the sound of the dogs and cows rustling below our window, dreaming of a view and beautiful sunrise. Let me tell you something, that alarm was worth it, sunrise was pretty special.

 

 

The local for the week is one of my favourite Queenstown tour operators. I first flew with Glenorchy air a few years ago to Milford Sound, you can read about that here, this time we were off somewhere new.

I had never flown to or over Mount Cook and have always said it sits firmly at the top of my New Zealand bucket list. If you don’t know Aoraki, Mount Cook National Park is my favourite place in New Zealand. We have explored here, hiked here, camped here and to top it off last year we got engaged here. It is magical. I don’t think I can put it into words, it’s a little like Milford Sound in the sense you can’t explain it, you must just go down there and see for yourself.

I got the text. The flight was confirmed. After a couple of weeks of back and forth with the team due to space and weather hold-ups, it was finally happening. I was finally about to fly over my beloved mountain. The day started early which is a bonus for shooting. Flying early means the harsh midday sun doesn’t make an appearance, another tip for shooting on a scenic flight, wear black, oh and take your camera strap off, this stops any unwanted reflections in the plane window.

Check-in at the airport I sat and waited for our fellow passengers. A lovely English couple rolled in, looking like they just stepped out of an outdoor clothing campaign, perfect attire for this mission and they were on board for us using them as models for the day. After a quick safety brief in the terminal, our pilot James took the group out to the hanger where our beautiful new little plane was waiting. This particular plane was new to the fleet and perfect for flying to Mount Cook. Smaller in size meaning only 6 seats including the pilot. I jumped in the back so I could shoot out all windows and our friends took up the middle. We popped on our headsets and sat back taking off quickly into the sky above Queenstown. As soon as you’re flying high you get a real sense for how grand and majestic this land is.

We took a turn for Arrowtown and Wanaka skimming past Cardrona in a matter of minutes and then Lake Wanaka came into view. The blue of the lake and the surrounding mountains were truly breathtaking. Having the back seat meant I had pretty much a 360 view of the scenes unfolding below and what my fellow passengers couldn’t see was my happy dance in the back row.

We quickly passed over Wanaka, Lake Hawea and cruised over Mount Aspiring National Park. My oh, oh my. This is where the landscape changed, the mountains got a whole lot sharper and alpine lakes started making an appearance. It was bloody incredible. I have never explored Mount Aspiring on foot, although I long to. The scenes below just made me hungry for adventures in the national park. It was wild, river braids, vast open valleys, and snow-capped mountains as far as the eye could see. Even the tip of Tititea, Mount Aspiring made a brief show through the clouds.

Wow, this is where I cried. I cried while sat in the back of a plane with my camera pressed to my face, silently pinching myself watching the mountains float on by underneath us.

If you have been to Mount Cook, driven past or even seen an image online you will recognize the blue of Lake Pukaki like no other. The turquoise water broke through the cloud letting me know we were close to our destination. Slowly but surely we flew over Red Tarns, over the braided river and hit the runway at Mount Cook airport. I felt like I had floated here, it was a surreal feeling to be on the tarmac. We exited the plane and jumped in the Glenorchy Air minibus. As we had a little extra time James took us for a coffee at the old mountaineers café in the village. This is one of my favourite cafes. Privately owned and operated, incredible views and awesome little mountain trinkets adorn the walls.

We hopped back in the van back to the airport. I was blissfully unaware of what would be happening next, there was talk that we would be going heli-hiking. There might not be room for me so I thought I would take a walk around and wait for the couple to return. Oh no, there was room. Hannah, the beautiful lady who works for Mount Cook Ski planes and heli’s squeezed me in and before I knew it I was lacing my boots and ducking my head while clambering into the front seat of the helicopter.

Off into the sky, we go. Flying low, hugging the mountainside and climbing higher up the Tasman Glacier. When visiting Mount Cook you must walk round to the Tasman glacier, here you will see New Zealand’s longest glacier, 27kms long, 4kms wide and incredibly powerful. I remember once we hiked to the view point and the whole lake was peppered with icebergs as a skyscraper-sized piece had broken off in the night.

We landed on the ice, ran out of the heli like we were extras in some kinda action film, held on to our belongings and each other as the blades whipped up the ice and snow around us. Less than ten-seconds later we were alone on the glacier, our guide, an absolute character teaching us all we need to know about not losing our footing while traversing this giant. Crampons secure and hiking poles at the ready we set off on foot over the ice. Our guide made ice stairs with his axe, picked a route and showed us deep into ice caves carved by the glacier. We listened for avalanches and braved some pretty big gaps in the ice as we looped back to the helipad/landing spot. I lagged behind a lot, one because I was shooting and needed the landscape to dwarf our models but two I needed a moment to process where I was, again, a pinch-me moment. The backside of Mount Cook loomed in the distance and the sound of our helicopter could be faintly heard echoing around the valley.

I took my place in the middle seat of the heli and watched as the mountains slowly disappeared out of view. The Tasman lake floated on by and we could see the faint blues of Pukaki in the distance. On route back to the Glenorchy Air aircraft I knew our adventure was nearly over. James, our pilot flew back through central Otago, we cruised over the Lindis Pass, over central and Ben Ohau station.

Familiar scenes quickly came around. Lake Wakatipu and the mountains I so happily call home went by as we cruised back into Queenstown airport. This truly was one of the most magical experiences of my life & I can’t recommend the team at Glenorchy air enough.

Thank you Glenorchy Air for the memories & fulfilling one of my biggest dreams.

Check out my scenic flight adventure here.